You can use the following url to link this article in your own site or blog. This url will stay valid even after the article has been archived.
Permalink:
The momentum toward more local sourcing across the restaurant spectrum is undeniable – as are the incentives. Restaurateurs cite local products’ superior freshness (and, therefore, taste and nutrition); the satisfaction of supporting businesses in their communities; the reduction of long-distance transportation costs along with carbon footprints; the quality assurance that comes from knowing the origin of products; the powerful connection that can result with both producers and customers; and, as many say, “It’s the right thing to do.” That sentiment taps into other factors, notably the important role that local sourcing plays toward a goal of sustainability and even geo-politically. Long-time advocate and founder of White Dog Cafe, Philadelphia, PA, Judy Wicks cites the urgency of “building regional self-reliance in the food chain as we face the uncertainties of climate change and rising oil prices.” Another vulnerability, she says, is that when societies have little control over their food supply and growing practices, the result is unhealthy food and an unhealthy population.
There’s also no question that local sourcing requires more effort and a commitment to work through its particular challenges. Because buying locally means dealing with specialized and smaller suppliers, operators can find themselves making many more calls dealing with more deliveries, etc. Even those with the proximity and time to buy directly from farmers’ markets share the challenges of finding products consistently and in sufficient quantities, and they must also work around the accounting issues of paying cash. More distributors seem to be willing to handle the logistics of local sourcing – either via restaurant requests for specific vendors or through their own legwork finding local producers – which makes buying locally more feasible for many restaurants. Ann Karlen, executive director, White Dog Community Enterprises/Fair Food, says, “Distributors are definitely feeling the pressure because more of their customers are asking for local products. Some progressive business people in the distribution business have responded, and many are trying, but it’s not easy for them – distribution is all about logistics. But it’s only by asking that things will change. I say, let them know you want it. It will be a reaction to a need and an opportunity.”
Prices for local products are often higher – although most restaurateurs agree that when superior quality and transportation savings are factored in, increased costs aren’t a major deterrent. Sometimes just getting started is the hurdle. Happily, there’s a lot of activity on both sides of the restaurant-farmer connection, and an increasing number of organizations, agricultural groups, and networks are facilitating those relationships. (Visit restaurantbriefing.com and search Special Edition 3, More Resources.) Just the same, says Deborah Kane, vp, Food & Farms, Ecotrust, “Some restaurateurs tell me they are hesitant to start because they know they can’t go all the way – convert completely to local sourcing. I tell them that we all have our inherent inconsistencies, and everyone has to make decisions that are right for them. But it’s important to just try. Start with one menu item – then you’re on the path.” Melissa Kogut, exec. director, Chefs Collaborative, agrees. “To get past the ‘I can’t do it all, so I can’t do anything’ sentiment, we encourage chefs to take steps, and when they’ve mastered one, to move on to another. Perhaps start by incorporating some products on the menu that are seasonally available from local farms – that’s a relatively easy step.”
Even baby steps have a big impact when they are taken by multi-unit restaurant companies, such as Denver-based Chipotle, with more than 800 units, and the 200+ unit Noodles & Co., based in Broomfield, CO. Both are deeply committed to local sourcing and are exploring what works for them, starting with produce items. Like all chains, they have the added challenge of trying to do this consistently, safely, on a large enough scale – and in the context of standardized recipes.
Noodles & Co. works through regional suppliers that bring in locally and regionally raised produce, when available, that’s consistent with its quality standards. “Working with our suppliers, the first thing we consider when looking at products is food safety, then quality, pricing, and availability that would let us deliver to our locations on a consistent basis,” explains Dawn Voss, chief administrative officer overseeing culinary and supply. And they are constantly on the lookout for opportunities. “We review all our products all the time,” says Dawn. “For example, now we’re looking at milk to see if we can source it at a local level in our communities.” The local level can also dictate what products Noodles & Co. sources in some areas. “We listen all the time to guests – different things are critical in each community. We want to connect and serve what’s important to them.” In Portland, OR, locations, Noodles & Co. utilizes organic lettuce from local produce houses because organic, fresh produce is an important value in that community. In other regions, they might not have the same level of interest – or the resources. In every location, Dawn underscores the importance of making it easy and seamless for managers. “If they are worried about what’s coming in the back door, they can’t be focused on guests.”
Noodles & Co. may have become decentralized in some areas of purchasing, but Dawn credits much of the success of their initial efforts to the fact that they are very centralized in their beliefs about why it’s important. “Trying to secure produce from as local a source as possible is very consistent with our company values, so we do it as often as we can. We’re doing the right thing for our customers and our communities – and we talk about it all the time with our managers and with each other,” she says.
Even on a much smaller scale, it takes communication and a commitment to all the links in the chain. “It’s a learning process on both sides,” says Deborah. Organizations like Ecotrust are working with farmers to help them become more competitive – to understand and meet the needs of the growing number of restaurants who want to do business with them. “Increasingly, growers realize the ease with which chefs have made a phone call and gotten the same product today and tomorrow. Ultimately, it’s not an unreasonable expectation, and this feedback is being shared with the grower/farmer community. As the direct market grows and becomes more profitable, it will be a matter of course.”
In the meantime, it’s going to take a village – lots of them. “To make this work, cooperation is vital,” says Melissa. Restaurants must bend a little, and producers must address their expectations, she advises. She underscores the power of commitment to everyone’s success – including growers and farmers with whom restaurants do business. “That’s the kind of thinking that makes the local system work.”
The spirit and advantages of working together applies to restaurants as well. “Our advice is that restaurants work in partnership, not alone,” says Deborah. “Put together a coalition – seek out other restaurants that might buy from local farmers who can meet your needs. It’s really a community effort.”
