As interest in sustainability increases, restaurateurs and chefs across all restaurant segments are buying more from local farmers and producers. According to National Restaurant Association research, 87% of fine dining and approximately 75% of family and casual dining restaurants now serve some items that have been grown or produced locally. Peter Hoffman, chef/owner, Savoy, New York, NY, has been buying at farmers’ markets for years primarily because everything tastes so much better. “I’ve always liked being inspired by what is fresh and truly seasonal – it’s a very exciting way to work,” he says. “Plus, by developing relationships with local farmers, there is added security in knowing how your food is grown and produced as well as an understanding about how farming practices impact flavor and nutrition.”

“I’m doing my small part because I can’t not do it; it doesn’t feel right. The more I’m cognizant of my community and our environment, the better I sleep at night.” -Neal Fraser, chef/owner, Grace, Los Angeles, CA

“Buying locally takes dedication; it’s more work than simply picking up the phone,” explains Meghan Sheradin, exec. dir., Vermont Fresh Network (VFN), a membership organization that promotes purchasing partnerships between farmers, producers, and chefs. VFN chefs are required to buy from a minimum of three local producers, one of which can be a distributor who obtains product locally. (Meghan says more and more distributors are buying from local producers, which makes purchasing locally a little easier and less time consuming for chefs.) VFN chefs are also encouraged to visit the farms as well as invite farmers to visit their restaurants. “It helps each party to understand what the other is doing, and it’s important to form relationships,” notes Meghan. Ann Harvey Yonkers, co-founder, FreshFarms markets in the Washington, D.C. area, agrees that meeting face to face is very important. “Chefs and growers need get to know one another to develop trust so they have the patience to work things out when issues of supply and/or quality arise.” Just the same, adds Peter, “Sometimes there are glitches – the weather doesn’t cooperate, the farmer sells what you want to someone else, etc. – so you need to be able to adapt your menu easily and quickly. Take small steps in the beginning – start with herbs which are easy to transport and can punch up the plate with local flavor.”

A growing number of chefs take the relationship one step further and work with farmers to grow especially for them. “Buying locally is a differentiating factor for our company,” says Brooks Broadhurst, vp food and beverage, Eat’n Park (80 restaurants headquartered in Pittsburgh, PA). “Our goal is to have 20% of the products we use come from local farmers and producers, especially produce from 120 miles away or less. But for an operation our scope, we need consistency and quantity.” So, through their produce distributors, Eat’n Park works with local farmers to supply specific products, including tomatoes of a certain size. “In February we meet with local farmers from whom our distributors buy to explain in person what we need and why. This helps the farmers understand the challenges we face,” says Brooks. “We worked with local dairies to eliminate the use of hormones because Eat’n Park serves only hormone-free milk. They were happy to work with us because they know we’re committed to buying from them.” (For information on buying locally, contact Briefing.)